... une histoire de vélo, WWOOFing et notre fils.

We are Jeff Volk (American, 42 y.o.), Katy Murray (English, 33 y.o.) and our son Bodhi Fell (3 years). This adventure originally consisted of cycling around France for one year, while stopping and WWOOFing in various regions around France. This occurred from June 2014-5. In April 2016 we resumed cycling, heading east across France from Brittany to Switzerland...

Nous sommes Jeff Volk (Américain), Katy Murray (Anglaise) et notre fils Bodhi Fell (3 ans). Au départ notre projet s’est agi de faire un tour à vélo tout en s’arrêtant et faisant du wwoofing dans de nombreux départments à travers la France. Cette aventure avait duré un an (juin 2014 – juin 2015) et elle était largement un grand succès. Au mois d’avril 2016 on est reparti à vélo pour faire le trajet Bretagne-Suisse et la suite…

Tuesday 24 June 2014

A Few Words About Us/ Preparations/ New Additions...


We are Jeff Volk (American, 40 y.o.), Katy Murray (English, 31 y.o.) and our son Bodhi Fell (1 y.o.).  Our wish is to cycle around France in at least one calender year's time (with no real time limits), while stopping and WWOOFing in various regions around France. 

We are undertaking this adventure as a means of combining our passions for travel, culture, cycling, food, sustainable agriculture, alternative lifestyles and spontaneity - and providing Bodhi the opportunity to learn and grow in rural and natural environments.  France, with its incredible history, culture, landscapes, gastronomy and alternative lifestyles, is an ideal choice for this sort of adventure.

This blog is being created to share our experiences with our family and friends and acquaintances, both old and new.   At the same time, we wish to actively promote alternative lifestyles, especially with young children!

We began on 17 June, 2014 in North Shields, England.



PREPARATIONS...


I suppose its no surprise that the planning and logistics for such an undertaking are considerable.  But more important yet, the outlook of your kid(s).  Luckily for us, Bodhi showed a zeal for adventure from the get-go...


OF TRAVEL, CAMPING AND ADVENTURE:


hiking in the Swiss Alps (age 3.5 weeks)

walking in the English Lake District  (age one month)

At age 3.5 months, we decided to do a famous long-distance walk in the north of England, the Hadrian's Wall footpath.  Although it's only 150km long, the addition of a new baby gave us a different kind of challenge.  We camped the whole way (wild camping), and Katy breastfed Bodhi exclusively as well!  And it was a wild success...

Bodhi's first night camping, ever (age 3.5 months)


22kg backpack, 6kg baby, 1900-year-old wall

Bodhi, pretty happy with the situation
breastfeeding on the wall!

taking a break from the rain with Mammy, in Cumbria


OF BIKES AND TRAILERS:


Introducing Earl Scruggs, time-tested road warrior.  Katy is to use this rigid-fork, steel-frame late-1990's Trek 830...  Jeff  previously rode it from Senegal to South Africa (2005-6), amongst other travels and modes.  A bike with its own heartbeat and more stories than imaginable.
Jeff's bike.  Also a road-tested veteran: Alaska to Argentina to Brazil (2009-14).  Steel-frame, suspension fork, 1990's-era Schwinn MTB, and a complete survivor: it's been to hell and back several times already.


Now, hauling.  We started looking for trailers about 8 months before the start of our trip.  On a trip to Switzerland we had previously been impressed by a brand called Chariot (Thule-Chariot); the only problem is that new Chariots go for up to 1000 euros, without accessories.  Thus began our search for used Chariots on E-bay and Gumtree (like Craigslist).  By some magical coincidence, we happened upon the only used Chariot for sale on Gumtree in ALL of the U.K., and it was one block from our flat in North Shields.  Even better, it cost 80 pounds.  The model we obtained is the Cougar 2, which is a double-wide trailer intended to haul 2 children around.  We bought it with no clear plan yet...

we took the Cougar on some local test rides, along the waggonways of North Tyneside and along the coastal biking paths of the North Sea...


Bodhi enjoying his new ride (age 5 months).

However, it really proved to be too wide for transporting Bodhi.  We decided it would be better served for hauling baggage.
So, the next important step was the obtaining of Bodhi's future house-on-wheels: the Chariot CX-1.  In our opinion, this is by far the best single-child trailer option on the planet.  Besides the super smooth ride and the suspension system, with little or no effort, the trailer can be converted into: a stroller, a jogger, a bike trailer, a hiking rickshaw, and a cross-country ski sled (for that matter, so can the Cougar)!  We bought one in nearly mint condition on Craig's List in North Carolina for $350, the bargain of the century.  


in the CX-1 in snowy Pennsylvania (age 7 months)

On one of his first rides (grandparents' house in background).  The Chariot would reliably send him into a deep 3-hour sleep at this point in time.


Daddy and Bo on a training ride near Newcastle in June 2014

Finally, some last-minute preparations for departure: clearing out the flat, doing a few test rides, performing some bike maintenance and component replacement, saying goodbye to friends and family, organizing what seems to be an endless mountain of baby things, etc.:


Bodhi runs like mad about the flat while Jeff does last-minute prep work on the bicycles and trailers

Bo with Nana and Grandda in Whitley Bay


OF NAPPIES AND THINGS (seriously):


This is a touchy topic.  Of course we are 100% pro-reusable-nappies, but hard-travelling makes this a very complicated situation.  So we have compromised: during our WWOOF stays we will use reusables as much as possible, and during our cycling days we will usually use disposables...


this brand (above and below)  is Tots Bots, based in the U.K., and they are one of our favorites (we have tried various)...


this style is known as a Flip, and we also have had good success with this type, especially for the overnights.

As for baby wipes, we often make our own, using a solution of chamomile tea, olive oil and lavender essential oil.



NEW ADDITIONS:


The first item, and most important adjustment we made, was the addition of the following:

This bag, a Kelty Woobie designed specially for young children, has proven to be excellent.  Although it's slightly bulky, Bo sleeps very well in it, and as its rated to 0°C it takes away any worries of the young'un being too cold.  An x-mas gift from Cici and Grandfather, we started using it in Provence.

In January 2015, also while in Provence, we added a new piece of gear to our traveling scene:


 A Christmas present from Maureen and Phil Murray, Bo's English grandparents.


The "Chillafish".  Technically a tricycle/balance bike (since it converts into a two-wheeled balance bike as well), this was a stroke of genius, as Bodhi now had his own "wheels".  This would prove to be invaluable for countless hours of indoor and outdoor fun along the way.  It stayed with us until the end of our cycling route in Brittany.


Further along, near Bordeaux, we obtained a second balance bike, which was selected for its (future) ability for off-road conditions and overall durability:

Purchased through Le Bon Coin, France's version of Craigslist or Gumtree.  Called the "street boy".



Thursday 12 June 2014

Merci Mille Fois... A Special Thanks Goes to...



The Un-seen Wheels:

We would like to thank the following individuals and families for their support, encouragement, hospitality, and generosity in helping to make this trip possible:


-Phil and Maureen Murray (Nenthead, England) for being fun and loving grandparents; for the week in the gîte in Cormoz, dept of Ain; for the week at the beach near Bezier; and the visit in Haute Garonne!
-Douglas and Christine Volk (Gwynedd Valley, Pennsylvania, USA) for also being loving grandparents, and for their complete support and encouragement, even from the other side of the pond.  And of course, the week in the gîte in Ruch, department of Gironde, May 2015, with the endless stream of Bordeaux wine and the many memories.
-Sonja Huber and Jason Volk (Luzern, Switzerland).  To the two of you for a great weekend in Ardèche in October 2014, and especially to Sonja for joining us on TWO cycling sections, and for the companionship on the coldest and hardest nights of our trip thus far!  Also for the week near Bordeaux in May 2015.  And finally, the nearly month-long cumulative stay in Luzern in June/July/August 2016, including Bodhi's 3rd birthday party plus bicycle-gift, AND the daytrip to Germany for parcel-sending and food shopping.
Alicia Volk Fishbein, Greg Fishbein, and little niece Nora, and newly arrived Sylvie (Washington, D.C., USA) for the great visit near Bordeaux in May 2015, the passion for fine wines, and for the encouragement.
Wilson O. Weldon the Third (Durham, NC, USA) for helping to obtain the essential Chariot CX-1, Bodhi's home on wheels.
-Daniel Doll (Mainz/Oberhausen, Germany) for continued bicycle part donations, advice and assistance, and big help in obtaining the B.O.B. trailer.
-Di Jelley & family (Tynemouth, England) for unending support and encouragement.
-John and Kayo Cant (Beverley, England) for hosting us for one night.
-Arnaud de Lavelaye (Brussels, Belgium) for hosting us for 3 nights, for making a sizable food donation to our cycling trip, and for all the laughs and remembrances.
-Pieterjan Heyse & Lies Kuppens (Wetteren, Belgium) for hosting us for one night.
-Michel Buyckx & Karen (Anhée, Belgium) for hosting us for one night.
-Christine Sittner (Luxembourg, Luxembourg) for hosting us for 2 nights.
-Bruno & family (Offwiller, France) for repairing Katy's broken bicycle, for the Alsatian wine and cherries, and for the Offwiller lore!
-Cathy Zell (Strasbourg, France) for hosting us for 2 nights.
-Olivier Claudel & family (Colmar, France) for hosting us for one night.
-Christian Heyner (Basel, Switzerland) for hosting us for 2 nights, AND for storing our bicycles and trailers for 2 weeks while we attended Simon Murray's wedding in England.
-Philippe, Stephanie & family (Montbéliard, France) for hosting us for one night completely spontaneously in August 2014 as we stopped to ask for water!  And for the second stay as we headed east on our ride in May 2016.
-André Risetti (Montigny-sur-Armancon, France) for a wonderful WWOOF stay in Burgundy in August-Sep '14 - and the short stay in May 2016 - the most amazing, generous WWOOF host ever.  Special thanks as well for Bodhi's bike seat: it has revolutionized the way we travel and Bodhi's appreciation for bicycles.
-Jordan (Australia) for being our first cycling companion - spontaneously - and for the fireside chats and laughs.
-Pierre Lumeau & Stephanie Roy & family (Beaumes-sur-Granges, France) for a great WWOOF stay in Sept. '14 in Jura, for the pizza and bread frenzy, and for the tractor ride!
-The Parrin Family (Beaupont, France) for a great gîte stay in Cormoz in September '14.
-Annick & Thierry Sambaud (St. Savin, France) for an unforgettable WWOOF stay in Oct. '14 in Isère, plus a special mention for organizing the precious and classy Le Tour de France de Bodhi soirée!
-Joelle (St. Savin, France) pour le gateau pour Bodhi lors de la soirée!
-Fadi and Anne-Laure (Vienne, France) for hosting us for one night, as well as the fried fish, chips, and hummus-and-pita dinner!  And for the lessons and talks on Palestine.
-Max Braure & Marine Lessard (near St. Pierreville, France) for a great WWOOF stay in Ardèche in Oct. '14 including the great company, the chestnut harvest, and the tractor ride!
-Jean-Yves Sanquer (Valence, France) for hosting us for 2 nights.
-Benoit Petitcolas and Albane Bigant (Grenoble, France) for being the best Warm Showers hosts ever: hosting us for 3 nights, helping us with Bodhi's mysterious fever, and taking us on a delightful dayhike in the French Alps!
-Laure Dehan (Grenoble, France) for being excellent company, for arranging a stay for us in Grenoble, for the rawfood lifestyle inspiration, and everything else!
-Franck (Grenoble, France) for hosting us for one night in Grenoble, for sharing some great moments with us, for playing with Bodhi, and everything else!
-Sylvain et Karine Charles (Romans-sur-Isère, France) for hosting us for one cold rainy night in Romans, for showing us their respective community projects, and a special thanks to Sylvain for helping Jeff change out his bottom bracket!
-The Bernard Family (Tournon-sur-Rhône, France) for a great WWOOF stay in Nov. '14.
-Eegi and Patrick (Tain l'Hermitage, France) for great company, several warm meals, for storing our bags for one week and for teaching us all about Estonia.
-Charlotte et Olivier (Valence, France) for hosting us for one night.
-The Ducarre Family (Loriol-sur-Drome, France) for hosting us for one night.
-Alex et Jordane Sagnard (St. Restitut, France) for hosting us for one night et bien sûr pour les petits dégustations qu'on a faits chez vous!
-Sarah et Cyril Rousset (Sorgues, France) for hosting us for one night.
-François et Lou (Cheval Blanc, France) for hosting us for one night and for storing a bike and trailer for one week for us!  Et merci aussi à Antoine pour avoir emmené à Jeff au Décatlon pour y chercher une chambre à air!
-Françoise, Pierre et Solange (Villelaure, France) for a WWOOF stay full of vegetables in Provence in Nov. '14 and Jan-Feb. '15.  Merci aussi pour nous avoir gardés les vélos et les remorques pendant tout le mois de décembre et un peu de janvier!
-George and Mireille (Villelaure, France) for the great company, for the laughs with Bodhi, and for the shared culinary treats.
-Mariana, Nora, Elena and Marianne (Aix-en-Provence, France) for hosting us for one fun Saturday night in Aix.
-Delphine, François et les enfants (Mouriès, France) for hosting us for one night, for inspiring us, and a very special thanks to François who saved us from a howling winter storm and dangerous roads one early February evening in Eyguières.
-Yves et Catherine (Nîmes, France) for hosting us for two nights in Nîmes and for the tips on visiting Nîmes.
-Laurent, Anne et les jeunes filles (Galargues, France) for hosting us for one windy night.
-Charlotte et Demian et famille (St. Martin de Londres, France) for hosting us for one night.
-Matthias Urban and Patricia Ducamp (Aspiran, France), for an excellent and generous WWOOF stay in Hérault in February '15: the most delicious vegetables we've ever eaten, which is saying much.  Special mention also for the salad inspiration!
-Jean Louis et Caro (St. Etienne d'Albagnan, France) for a gracious WWOOF stay full of wild herbs and mountain vibes in March '15.
-Mathiax Ospital, his partner Odile, and Dominique Ospital (Armissan, France) for a fabulous WWOOF stay near Narbonne in March 2015, full of olive patés and great company.  Merci aussi pour nous avoir gardés les vélos et les remorques lors de notre visite à Barcelonne!
-Eric (Armissan/Les Corbieres, France).  Merci pour être venu nous chercher à la gare de Narbonne lors de notre retour de Barcelonne.
-Louise Mackay (Barcelona, Spain) for hosting us for one night in Barcelona in April 2015, for the food feast, and for the company at Barceloneta beach.
-Francis Doonan, Tommy Gea, Tommy Jr., Ella and Emmie (Andorra/Barcelona, Spain) for hosting us for three nights in Barcelona in April 2015.
-Noémie, Stéphane, et les petits gars (Carcassonne, France) for hosting us for one night in Carcassonne in April 2015.
-Florence, Cyril and family (Carcassonne, France) for hosting us for one night in Carcassonne in April 2015.
-Annaig Pedrono and family (Montaut, France) for hosting us for one night in April 2015.
-Pascale and Christian Meltz (Cassagnabère, France) for a lovely WWOOF stay in April 2015.  Merci surtout pour les tuyaux sur les plantes officinales et comestibles.  Et bien, pour nous avoir invités à passer quelques jours dans la vieille maison à Loix, Île de Ré! 
-Bertrand et Delphine (Toulouse, France) for hosting us for two nights in Toulouse.
-Julie, Adrien, Amadea et Mael (Durfort-Lacapellette, France) for a fabulous WWOOF stay in April/May 2015, full of gourmet organic fruit sorbets, good vibes and fun times. 
-Jérémie, Eva et les enfants (Durfort-Lacapellette, France) pour la soirée imprevue chez vous et la bonne energie!
-Nadine Grepin, Gilles Przetak, Robin et Eva (Labarthe, France) for the excellent WWOOF stay in May 2015, notably the experience with animal traction, for the delicious vegetables, and for the genuine spirit of sharing in your house.
-David Boulin et Alain (Ruch, France) for the great week in the gîte (Chambre-en-Vigne, Ruch) in May 2015, especially the friendly welcome.
-Evelyne Guilhem (La Tourne, France) for the impromptu night's welcome in May 2015.
 -Samuel, Alek, Lola, Léo et Titouan Lavolee (Nantes, France) for a fantastic two-night stay in June 2015.
-Morgan Ody (Calan-Brech, France) for a wonderful final WWOOF stay in Morbihan in mid-June 2015, and for the second visit in April 2016.  Merci pour l'échange et surtout pour nous permettre de garder nos vélos chez toi lors de notre grande rando de St. Jacques!

-Francis et Catherine (St. Berthevin, France) pour nous avoir reçus en avril 2016 pour une nuit. 
-Michel Corre (Angers, France) pour nous avoir logés pendant deux nuits en avril 2016.  Merci aussi pour la petite dégustation de la gastronomie bretonne.
-Simone et Jean-Claude (Saint George des Sept Voies, France) pour nous avoir invités pour une nuit en avril 2016.  Votre hospitalité a été merveilleuese.  Merci en particulier à Jean-Claude pour nous avoir accompagnés sur la Loire, et aussi à vous deux pour les belles photos!
Thibault, Julie, Lina et bébé (Calan/Brech. France) pour le petit piquenique près de Villandry et pour le panier de fruits/légumes.  Aussi pour le partage de vos aventures!
-Madeleine (Meung-sur-Loire, France) pour nous avoir invités pendant deux jours en mai 2016 près d'Orleans.  Ainsi on a pu bien se reposer chez toi!
Lind (Billy-sur-Oisy, France) for spotting us in the rain, waiting while we climbed a hill, and guiding us directly to her house one rainy spring day in May 2016 in Burgundy!  Thanks for hosting us for the night and for the lovely conversation and sharing!
-Hervé et Cathy (près de Vézélay, France) for hosting us for one night in May 2016.  Merci pour le partage et pour la petite excursion en tracteur!
-Barbara Burkhard and family (Basel, Switzerland) for hosting us for two nights in May-June 2016.  Thanks especially for the warm company, the great conversation, and for storing one bike and two trailers for us for one week!
-Stephen, Simone, Gabriel and Jacob Pennell (Rheinfelden, Switzerland) for hosting us for two nights in June 2016 and one night in August 2016.
-Douglas Pennell (Windisch, Switzerland) for hosting us for two nights in June 2016, especially the European Cup Tex-Mex reception!
-Sepp and Anita Huber (Ballwil, Switzerland) for hosting us for one night in June 2016 at their home on the way to Luzerne.  Thanks for the excellent cooking and the unforgettable pear schapps tastings! 
-Manuela Huber (Luzerne, Switzerland) for the companionship in Jason and Sonja's flat in Horw in June and July-August 2016.  Thanks especially for the sharing of wild blueberries and the hiking trip!
-Reto, Martina, Lise and Joy (Horw, Switzerland) for the great company with Bodhi and the girls, for the stand-up paddle trip, for the trampoline sessions, and for the donation of the bike seat!
-Esti and Christian and family (Flüelen, Switzerland) for hosting us for one night in August 2016, just before our climb over the Alps.  The dinner and the company were second-to-none.
-Fran and Clau (Barcelona, Spain) por hospedarnos por dos noches en Barcelona en Agosto 2016.  Gracias sobretodo por la cálida recepción y el contacto en Valencia.
-Manuel y Natalia (Valencia, Spain) por recibir y guardar una caja para nosotros durante dos meses.  Gracias también por los consejos sobre Valencia.