For the Love of Olives: Domaine de L'Angel; Armissan, Aude, Languedoc (18 March - 1 April 2015)

Fresh from a great stay in the calm hills and clean air of Le Salvet, and ready to move on after nearly 6 weeks in L'Herault, we rode south towards the Mediterranean, at a stone's throw from Narbonne.  Our next stop: an olive farm only 15km from the sea!  Named L'Angel, it has been in family hands for nearly 90 years... and for us, an opportunity to pitch a hand in the cultivation of olives...

THE RIDE TO L'ANGEL:

We departed Le Salvet on a foreboding morning, following fantastic dirt tracks through the mountains.

This kind of riding briefy reminded Jeff of Latin America: wild, fun and very adventurous.

Katy rounds a corner on a climb that would normally reward with views of the Pyrénées.  Today only mist and rain, but still utterly beautiful.

All of this was followed by a flying descent though these hills.

We stopped for lunch in the quiet village of Berlou, and Bo set out to explore on his balance bike.

Several kilometers south of Berlou we stopped in this area to camp.

Our system - tarp plus tent - is foolproof.

When's the last time you saw a 22-month-old building fires?  By this time, Bo is gathering sticks and placing them on the fire!

Here we are in St. Chinian the following morning, and the little man is back to his old tricks.

Climbing out of St. Chinian Katy chats with a local.

A glance back at St. Chinian.

In wine country, clear as can be...

Can't complain about the scenery or the quiet country roads as Katy starts a looping descent.

We crossed the Aude River at Cuxac D'Aude, now into the department of Aude.

THE PEOPLE:

Matiax Ospital, our animated host at L'Angel.

Bo, Matiax, and Dominique (Matiax's mother).  Dominique splits her time between L'Angel and Pays Basque.

The indefatigable Bodhi Fell.

Eric, Charlotte, and Katy.  Eric is a local friend and former resident of L'Angel, and Charlotte is a WWOOFer from Germany.

Group dinner: (L-R) Charlotte, Dominique, Jeff, Matiax, Bo and Odile (Matiax's partner).

Katy helps out with the baby goats.  Matiax has a small herd of 7 goats.

Jeff and Bo sharing a bedtime story.  This is Snow White in French.

Our last day or two at L'Angel coincided with a visit from an international group of cyclists (Germany, Austria, Argentina) who stayed at L'Angel as part of a two-week excursion they were undertaking in the south of France and Catalunya.  Their project is titled Cycling Alternatives and combines pedalling with sustainable lifestyles (not so different from what we'e up to!)  see: www.cyclingalternatives.org/

Can't forget about this gal, the alpha of the goatherd and an intimidating presence for young Bodhi, who had just given her a an old roll to eat.

THE PLACE:

In the family hands for nearly 90 years, it was Matiax's maternal greatgrandparents (Véronique's grandparents) who bought the farm.  Véronique spent her youth coming here as a holiday home or for summer vacations.

As seen from another angle.

The salon, as it looked 100 years ago, maintained in its original state.

We had our own room in the second floor, where Bo found plenty to do.

The perpetual allure of the chicken coop...

... but this is who really caught Bo's attention.

The site features a stately garden that was designed and laid out with the original house from 1850.

Bo flies around the paths of the garden

Wandering the adjacent vineyards!

The view of Narbonne from L'Angel, only 6 km away.

While we were onboard, L'Angel organized a storytelling event in the garden and house...

Gathered round the fire in the refurbished horse stables for some proper French storytelling.

Matiax prepared the meal that followed, a delicious sampling including onion spread, wild asparagus and homemade olive spreads.

We had these for another meal: tielle, or octopus pies, a traditional dish from the Mediterranean port of Sète.

Bo plays with the chevrots (baby goats.)

THE WORK:

Giving Daddy a hand with the digging of a posthole for the garden gate!

Katy pits a whole bunch of olives...

!!!

... which will become artesenal tapinade, or olive paté.

Some of Matiax's creations: fig-olive and basil-olive tapinades.  The BEST we've ever eaten, which is saying something.

Naturally, olive oil is also a featured product from L'Angel.

17 Euros a litre, 100% organic cold pressed extra-virgin, and to die for.

Katy feeds the chipper with olive trimmings which will be used as mulch.

Charlotte and Jeff.

Jeff in the middle of some major hedge-trimming.

OUT AND ABOUT IN THE REGION:

We spent our first full free day exploring down to the nearby coast.  This is the nearby village of Gruissan.

Arrived at the Mediterranean, our first time on this trip... and Bodhi's first glimpse of it.  So we've gone from the North Sea (Newcastle) to the Mediterranean, and 3000 km, in just over 8 months. 

Having some fun on a cold day at Gruissan-plage....

Katy and Bo heading out to greet the sea.

We found a slide and playpark at Narbonne-plage which Bo went crazy for.

The view back towards the sea as we climb away from Narbonne-plage.

Bo struts along a lookout point in the Massif de la Clape, the name for the hills and ridges in this area.

A striking farm and vineyard called L'Hospitalet in the middle of the Massif de la Clape.

Name spelled out in wine barrels!

Descending towards Armissan.

A visit to nearby Narbonne.

The stunning Cathédrale Saint-Just-et-Saint-Pasteur de Narbonne.

One of its various gargoyles.

Macabre carvings on a tomb inside the cathedral.

The cycling path on the Canal de la Robine, which connects the Canal du Midi north of Narbonne with the sea.  We rode a small segment of it in advance of our coming ride along the Canal du Midi.

A view towards the Massif de la Clape from the Canal de la Robine.