Biking Burgundy, via Vézelay: Orleans to chez André (Côte d'Or, Burgundy) (8 - 17 May 2016)

In this section, our travels would take a temporary detour from the EuroVélo 6 route, as we would leave the Loire at Cosne-sur-Loire, climb up to the sprawling plateaus of Burgundy, through the medieval pilgrimage town of Vézelay, and later follow the River Cousin deeper into Burgundy, finally passing by the medieval town of Semur-en-Auxois (which we had previously explored in 2014) on our way to Montigny-sur-Armancon, where we had spent over 3 weeks nearly two years ago...

Camping on the banks of the Loire, ~10 km souitheast of Orleans.

... Bo, checking out the river on a fine warm morning...

... and helping Jeff change a flat on his balance bike!

Joan of Arc, as seen in Jargeau, passed through this area in 1429 on her way to immortality.  On 11-12 June, 1429, there was an important battle between French and English forces, in which Joan survived a stone projectile which struck her helmet as she scaled the town walls in  the midst of an assault.

We ran into this French cycling family near Jargeau.  Starting from Nantes, they are on their way to the Black Sea, following the EuroVélo 6 in its entirety, with their 4 y.o. in tow in a kids' bike trailer called a WeeHoo.

Another way of exploring the Loire, appearing rather peaceful.

Wonderful entrance to the village of St. Benoit-sur-Loire, where we unknowingly happened upon...

... the Fleury Abbey, founded in 640 A.D., and containing in its dark crypt the relics of St. Benedict - the founder of the Benedictine order of monks (and considered the father of western monasticism).  Benedictines, as opposed to hermit-like stereotypes of  monks, live and work in communities

Bo and Katy beneath the fantastically-adorned north portal of the abbey church.  It depicts Christ with the Four Evangelists, and the story of the transport of St. Benedict's relics to Fleury.

On a grey, drizzly evening, we encountered the stunning Chateau de Sully-sur-Loire.

Bo sets out to explore the castle grounds.

Our camp near Sully.

Anonymous village weavers have decorated up the trees in Lion-en-Sullias.

Having a splash-about in Lion.

Jeff at the approach to Gien.

Gien, with its bridge dating from the 1730's.

Here's the little man flying down some fine forest trail...

...only to be distracted by the endless army of slugs and snails along the way.

We passed an alpaca/llama herd along our route...

... which Bo found fascinating.

Katy crosses the splendid pont-canal (canal bridge over the Loire) at Briare.  Built in 1896, at 662 m. in length it was the longest navigable aqueduct in the world for over 100 years.

The Loire as seen from the canal bridge.

A good look at a nutria, one of the predictable inhabitants of France's many canals.  (This canal is known as Le Canal Lateral a la Loire)

Cycling towards HELL (Belleville-sur-Loire nuclear-power plant)...

... where Katy shares our two cents about things.  Cycling - or just being- in such proximity to such atrocities makes you literally sick to your stomach.

We felt better about things as we left the Loire and climbed up onto the Burgundy plateaus...

... where expansive agricultural lands give way to distant horizons.

A wet night of camping, as rain seems to follow us around this spring.  The tarp gives us additional shelter for organization and for cooking.

The following day, near Billy-sur-Loisy, we were invited by a friendly local lady to spend the night in her house, safe from the rain!

Pictured with Lind, originally from Germany but who has lived most of her adult life in France.  She saw us cycling in the rain, waited with her car at the top of a steady climb under an umbrella, and invited us home, explaining that our Nucleaire-Non-Merci! flag was the source of her goodwill!

Bodhi cracks some walnuts for himself at Lind's.

At Clamecy, we visited La Chapelle Notre Dame de Betleem, Gothic construction completed in the 15th century.

St. Jacques Pélerin, seen in Clamecy, which is a stop on the Voie de Vézelay to Santiago.

The quais of the Canal de Nivernais...

... where Katy grabs a cat-nap in sunshine.

Jeff watching approaching storms as we climb away from Clamecy...

... then riding in evening rain through thick Burgundy forest lands.

A random fleur-de-lys seen in the forest as we near Vézelay.  Traditionally seen as a symbol of the French monarchy, it represents the three medieval social classes: those who worked, those who fought, and those who prayed.

Our first good look at Vézelay, on a misty morning.  We are excited to visit Vézelay, as our previous experience on the Camino de Santiago has awakened our interest.  (In particular, the Way of Vézelay is favored by cyclists.

Bo holding his own on a chilly morning.

As is usual in France, the medieval village of Vézelay is situated on a hilltop (easily defended from attackers), which means a big climb for us. 

The immense proportions of the Basilique de Sainte Marie-Madeleine of Vézelay, dating from the 12th century.  

Detail like this made the basilica an architectural and artistic masterpiece of Romanesque style in Burgundy....

A statue of Mary Magdalene seen inside the church.  The reason Vézelay became an important medieval pilgrimage site is because it reportedly contained the remains of the saint herself (who had left the Holy Land after the crucifixion on a boat bound for the Mediterranean and finished her days praying and meditating in caves near Aix-en-Provence).

The supposed relics of Mary Magdalene in the crypt of the basilica.  Unfortunately for Vézelay, the "intact remains" of Mary were discovered in 1279 in the south of France, effectively undermining the importance of Vézelay.

A modern pilgrim spotted on the streets of Vézelay.

Vézelay (starting in the 1930's)  has been reborn as a village with plenty of artists and art...

A Picasso seen in the fantastic Musée Zervos of Vézelay...

... containing multiple gems of paintings from the first half of the 20th century.

The sweeping vistas from Vézelay.

Unbelievably, as we are riding out of Vézelay, we are invited to a round of drinks by the owner of La Compostelle Bar and Restaurant!  

Near Avallon we were hosted by Hervé and Cathy (Warm Showers), with whom we shared some excellent conversation.

Hervé and Cathy belong to a small family-run ecological-and-learning center called Humeur Vagabonde.

We camped out under a poly-tunnel...

... and Bodhi drove a tractor for about 15 minutes!  Talk about ecstasy, he was as happy as he's ever been, which is saying something.  His job: driving a bale of hay over to feed the goats.

Along the River Cousins we passed some striking old mill houses.

Classic scene as we traverse the terre-plaine of Burgundy near Epoisse.

Our woods camp west of Semur-en-Auxois in Le Bois du Loup.

Looking for wild pigs in the woods!  (In this case we only heard them).

Dinner time; for Bodhi this means pasta, rice or couscous with a dash of olive oil, salt and nutritional yeast, and a side of canned peas or corn.

Semur-en-Auxois, as seen from the western entrance...

... before Katy descends towards the 13th-century medieval towers.

... finally, arrived...

... at Sourire-et-Nature...

... where we were given a warm welcome by André.  Nearly two years previous, we spent 3 weeks wwoofing here, meeting many interesting folks, and making some great friends, including André himself.